See my written pattern with some photos using 2 strands of Caron Simply Soft and a J Hook HERE.
I am always cold. Especially when it's cold and windy. But sometimes I don't want to wear a hat because I don't want to mess up my hair. I like hoods. I do not like pointy hoods. I like big, dramatic, medieval looking hoods. I like to look good, not like a 6 year old.
This pattern is a yarn eater and works best with different sized yarns. I use the same hook throughout. You can use light weight yarn for a lighter hood or even use chunky yarn for a really warm hood. Great for stash busting or using those horrible eyelash yarns that you will never use on anything else. I like to add the eyelashes to whatever yarn I've chosen so my hood isn't full of holes (working double stranded.)
You can use any sitch you want, or change stitches. I use a base of DCs and then add some rows/rounds of bobble or popcorn sitches. I also use different yarns to change it up. The focus isn't on the stitches, it's on the shape so have fun with it.
Yarn and hook of your choice.
I will give you a measurement of the project throughout, so you can use whatever hook and yarn you want. You can also make the hood as big and deep as you want. A lot of the drape will depend on the yarn and hook used so you may have to experiment to get what you want. But the pattern is pretty easy. I also recomend blocking to help get the drape you want. Especially if using cheap, stiff yarns.
Project is started in the round and then worked in rows.
You will need a calculator and some stitch markers. I use safety pins.
Special note: I don't start my rounds with your regular chain 3. I do this instead. This technique leaves no holes and makes your circle pretty much seamless.
Note about fun fur/eyelash yarn- for rounds or rows where I use fun fur, I work SCs or DCs the wrong way. This keeps the fuzzy part to the right side of my work. You don't have to do this, it is extra work and more ends to weave it, but I prefer this way.
Step 1A: Tassel beginning: Make a tassel, using whatever yarns you will be using or add charms or beads or whatever. My tassel is 5" long. I used a DVD case to measure, using the shorter side. I only use one tie, I knot it at the top of the tassel and then wind it around where the "wrap" part is. then I knot a few times and let those ends fall into the rest of the tassel. If you are unsure of how to make a tassel, google is your friend.
Step 1A: Tassel beginning: Make a tassel, using whatever yarns you will be using or add charms or beads or whatever. My tassel is 5" long. I used a DVD case to measure, using the shorter side. I only use one tie, I knot it at the top of the tassel and then wind it around where the "wrap" part is. then I knot a few times and let those ends fall into the rest of the tassel. If you are unsure of how to make a tassel, google is your friend.
Then make a magic ring and make some SCs to fit around your tassel. I use about 6 SCs. I leave the bulk of the tassel hidden so only the tails stick out.
*Important note: As you are working the tail, I pause after the second row and grab my yarn needle. I thread it with the end of the magic loop. Pull it tight to close the ring and make a few stitches into that wrap part until it is secure. I pull on the tassel to see if it's going to fall out. If it is secure, knot it a bunch of times and just leave those ends. Continue with your tail.
I worked the tail in SCs, 6 rows of black, 2 rows with fun fur, 4 rows of color, 2 rows of fun fur, and repeated, ending with the second group of fun fur. Make it as long as you want,(mine is 12") I make sure to increase up to 12 stitches in order to start the hood at 12 stitches. You don't have to use SCs for the tail, you can alternate your stitches and your yarn. You are making a tube here, so you can do it as a spiral or in the round. For this tube part, I use one strand of yarn, adding one strand of fun fur to one strand of my base color.
Step 1B: Non Tassel beginning: 12 DCs in ring. Some people make a circle with 9 stitches and that is ok if it works for your yarn and hook. Whatever number you start with, make sure that every increase and decrease round and row match that same number so you stay with the circle shape. If you will be double stranding your yarn, begin with a double strand.
Step 1B: Non Tassel beginning: 12 DCs in ring. Some people make a circle with 9 stitches and that is ok if it works for your yarn and hook. Whatever number you start with, make sure that every increase and decrease round and row match that same number so you stay with the circle shape. If you will be double stranding your yarn, begin with a double strand.
Step 2: For both beginnings:
12 increases each round until circle is 12" or more. I did 11 rounds for 13". You could also make this smaller. My head, from crown to neck is only 9" so there is plenty of room to make this smaller if you want to. It's completely customizeable. Any yarn, any size. You could even make this kids' sized. Here is where I begin double stranding my yarn.
*Note: You don't have to start with a circle. You could do any shape. For a flatter and more form fitted hood, try an oval. If you can, start with a star, hexagon, or even a flower and then turn it into a circle. My new project is started with a 4 colored spiral. Pot holder patterns work great too.
Step 3: Work even for a few rows, however deep you want the back to be. This part was 3" for mine. If you have long hair and plan to keep it in your hood, I would make this part bigger.
Now, grab your calculator. We will be placing markers.
Step 4: Count your stitches around the last row, this number is "X."
12 increases each round until circle is 12" or more. I did 11 rounds for 13". You could also make this smaller. My head, from crown to neck is only 9" so there is plenty of room to make this smaller if you want to. It's completely customizeable. Any yarn, any size. You could even make this kids' sized. Here is where I begin double stranding my yarn.
*Note: You don't have to start with a circle. You could do any shape. For a flatter and more form fitted hood, try an oval. If you can, start with a star, hexagon, or even a flower and then turn it into a circle. My new project is started with a 4 colored spiral. Pot holder patterns work great too.
Step 3: Work even for a few rows, however deep you want the back to be. This part was 3" for mine. If you have long hair and plan to keep it in your hood, I would make this part bigger.
Now, grab your calculator. We will be placing markers.
Step 4: Count your stitches around the last row, this number is "X."
X - 12 _ / 4 = # of stitches that will remain unworked. Count out this number, beginning with the last stitch of the last round. This will be the bottom of your hood and will be attached to the scarf. For example: I had 132 stitches - 12 = 120 / 4 = 30. So I put a marker in the 30th stitch from the last stitch of the last round, the last stitch will count as first stitch only for the purposes of counting right now.
X / 4 = # of stitches per side. We're taking a quarter of the stitches in order to figure out where to place your decreases. For example: My 132 / 4 = 33. This means I have 33 stitches per side. Bottom (which we counted as 30), top, left, and right. Our decreases will go on the left and right side.
I prefer to do my decreases with a stitch in between them so I don't get too many holes. We will decrease 12 stitches total, which means 6 stitches on the left and 6 on the right. In order to decrease 6 sitches, we need 12 stitches total. In order to put a DC between each decrease, we need to add another 6 stitches. Our decreases will incorporate 18 stitches. So, take your number of stitches per side (mine was 33) and subtract 18. Then divide by 2. This will tell you how many stitches to do before starting your decreases. For example: 33 - 18 = 15 / 2 = 7.5. Round down if needed. So, I will make 7 stitches before starting my decreases.
What I did for the other side was this. Since I have the 30 marked off for the bottom, I counted 3 more, then 7 more. Then 18. Mark that 18th stitch.
So, for this decrease round, I will work 7 stitches, (DC 2 Tog, DC) 6xs. Then DC to marker on the other side, (DC, DC 2 Tog) 6xs. Then you should have 10 stitches left until your bottom marker (7 + the extra 3). You will DC these bottom stitches in this round, so replace the marker when you pass it.
Step 5: Next row: Work to marker, then turn. (I had worked 90 DCs this is my new stitch count.) Now you will turn your work and work in rows.
X / 4 = # of stitches per side. We're taking a quarter of the stitches in order to figure out where to place your decreases. For example: My 132 / 4 = 33. This means I have 33 stitches per side. Bottom (which we counted as 30), top, left, and right. Our decreases will go on the left and right side.
I prefer to do my decreases with a stitch in between them so I don't get too many holes. We will decrease 12 stitches total, which means 6 stitches on the left and 6 on the right. In order to decrease 6 sitches, we need 12 stitches total. In order to put a DC between each decrease, we need to add another 6 stitches. Our decreases will incorporate 18 stitches. So, take your number of stitches per side (mine was 33) and subtract 18. Then divide by 2. This will tell you how many stitches to do before starting your decreases. For example: 33 - 18 = 15 / 2 = 7.5. Round down if needed. So, I will make 7 stitches before starting my decreases.
What I did for the other side was this. Since I have the 30 marked off for the bottom, I counted 3 more, then 7 more. Then 18. Mark that 18th stitch.
So, for this decrease round, I will work 7 stitches, (DC 2 Tog, DC) 6xs. Then DC to marker on the other side, (DC, DC 2 Tog) 6xs. Then you should have 10 stitches left until your bottom marker (7 + the extra 3). You will DC these bottom stitches in this round, so replace the marker when you pass it.
Step 5: Next row: Work to marker, then turn. (I had worked 90 DCs this is my new stitch count.) Now you will turn your work and work in rows.
Step 6: Work even for 3 - 4.5 inches, or more if you want your hood deeper. You can now try on the hood and figure out how many rows you want to do. I like to have my last row worked on the right side, so that's something to think about. Your last row wil be the next row. You can, of course, add a finishing round of SCs or some other decorative stitch once the whole thing is completed.
Step 7 (Last Row): Decrease 12 stitches evenly. This helps the hood to not flare out. To figure out how many stitches to do, take your current stitch count and divide by 12. For example: 90 / 12 = 7.5. Round down to 7. Now, 2 of these stitches will be for the decrease, so I will work 5 stitches and then decrease in 2. I will have a few stitches left over. this is not important. I simply DCed them.
Hood is finished. Now on to the scarf. Or, you can attach it to something else.
Scarf: One note about the scarf. I worked mine with the wrong side out. I do this because when I wear the hood, I fold the scarf under the hood. In order for the right side to be facing the correct way, you will need to work your scarf with the wrong side on the right side of the hood. I chained 50 stitches on each end of hood (the first and last stich you worked on the last row). Then I started, with wrong side facing, and made 50 DCs, picked up stitches across the side of the hood, included those stitches that we marked off as the bottom, picked up stitches on the other side and made 50 DCs on the chain I attached.
You can use whatever stitches you want to make the scarf, but this is what I did: 1 row of DC, 1 row of DCs with the fun fur, an odd number (usually 1 or 3) of rows of (DC, CH1, SK1) or ( cross stitches ) or ( DC in 2, CH1, SK1) or something else, then a row of DC with fun fur, and end off with a row of DCs.
You can now sc around the whole thing or whatever. Fringe the scarf or don't. I still haven't decided for mine. Stay warm and toasty without messing up your hair or looking like a fairie!
Please feel free to add your project to ravelry and post notes of how you created your hood. I'd love to see what you come up with.
Since this is my copyrighted pattern. I would prefer if you did not sell finished items online without my permission, contact me for permission if you'd like to sell online, especially if you are outside of the US. You can sell to your friends or at your local craft shows, but please don't sell at craft shows in the Northeastern Ohio area as that is where I sell. Also, do not post this pattern elsewhere, link to it here. You may make a copy of this pattern for yourself or for a class or group. Also, credit it as a design by Sinduction's House of Stitches. Thanks!
Let me know if I've left anything out or if you get stuck somewhere.
